It was slightly difficult to digest all of Sophia’s enthusiastic information without a personal library as we slowly made our way through the centre with its squares and statutes at each roundabout. After a brief photo-stop at the top of Edward VII Park with its geometric pruned hedges for a vista of downtown with the Tagus in the distance, going down Liberty Avenue we entered the Baixa district with its elegant avenues culminating in the Square of Commerce all rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755. There was no problem in digesting the food and excellent wine waiting for us at the Alcantara quayside restaurant before we visited the Monastery of St Jeronimos at Belem. The elaborate South Portal with its shrine-like hierarchy of figures centred round Henry the Navigator, headed by Our Lady of the Three Kings was impressive; even more so the interior- the nave’s soaring pillars supporting the beautiful fan-vaulted ceiling, the cloister decorated with ‘Manueline’ tracery-coiled rope spirals… Outside some had a bite of the local delicacy, Belem custard tart- despite the long shop queue thanks to our guide’s intervention. Sadly time did not allow a visit to Belem Tower but we all could see the modern Monument to the Discoveries with its caravel boat design. En route north to our hotel in Marinha Grande for a welcome buffet supper we briefly stopped to admire the awesome exterior of Batalha (Battle) Abbey.

Monday was an important day. Our pilgrimage to Fatima was a peaceful respite from the previous day’s excitement- no crowds with plenty of time to meditate, to pray or to stroll around the large square. Fr Patrick celebrated Mass in a side-chapel of the basilica reminding us of two aspects of our pilgrimage- the inner reconciliation of faith and the sense of community-of listening and looking out for each other.

Tuesday was travel day as we loaded up our suitcases to visit the next two major cities in Portugal going north to our hotel at Ofir. First we arrived at the New Church & Convent of St Clare to see the silver tomb and outdoor statue of St Queen Isabella with a good view across the Mondego river of the university quarters of Upper Coimbra. Passing the Little One’s Portugal theme park and the gardens where Ines was murdered, we stopped briefly for a coffee, comfort stop or quick visit to the old cathedral as 40 minutes allowed. A leisurely but brief coach tour of the university and Sé (cathedral) followed as we carefully avoided the new students carrying turnips. Then we were off to busy (O)Porto, reminded of an old saying
‘Coimbra sings, Braga prays, Lisbon shows off and Porto works’-‘the tripe eaters’ dismissive of the Capital’s ‘lettuce eaters’. Crossing the Douro along the lower twotier Dom (King) Luis bridge we stopped for a fine lunch at ‘Chez Lapin’ on the riverfront, a short walk in the Ribeira district and a short coach ride back across to Vila Nova de Gaia for a port tasting and tour at Graham’s port lodge (the White proved quite popular). Fortified, we quickly visited the Sé for a commanding view of the city as we bade farewell.

Wednesday was a rest day. Some took advantage of the hotel’s good facilities - the swimming pool, the bowling alley, the nearby beach. Many also strolled to the nearby village of Fão, visiting the attractive parish church, typically adorned with flowers, ‘azulejos’ wall tiles and baroque decoration. One, thinking of a career change, jumped onto the driving seat of an open air 1931 fire engine at the local emergency station while the attendants were not looking and almost got stuck. One venturing to Barcelos, told that she needed the same bus stop for the trip back, was rather bewildered that the return bus took a different route.

Thursday was the climax of our pilgrimage-a two hour scenic journey to one of the oldest shrines of Europe- Santiago de Compostela. Unfortunately a turbo problem with the coach meant a long coffee break in Valença on the border as we waited for a replacement, so missing the International Pilgrim’s Mass and the famous swinging of the large censer in honour of our group. However we had our own Mass in St Andrew’s chapel before following the age-old tradition of visiting the tomb of St James and touching the back of his altar statue without much queuing. The Romanesque Glory Doorway and the Jesse Tree were extraordinary. Although the square facing the Cathedral’s rich baroque Western façade with its twin towers was impressively large, it was easy to get lost in the attractive surrounding streets and squares.

Friday’s half- day visit to the attractive port of Viana do Castelo was the last on our listed schedule. We first stopped with a commanding if misty hilltop view of the town, at the Sacred Heart of Jesus dedicated to the martyred Santa Lucia (St. Lucy), Patroness of Sight. Under the striking decorated dome with its Greek style Stations of the Cross, Fr Patrick offered the final Mass of our pilgrimage. The spirited lesson reading and above all the singing moved the local priest to say more than a few words of greeting. Sophia did well, being a guide not interpreter, to translate spontaneously some of the religious terms. Owing to time and travel, common to all our explorations during the week, our stay in Viana was sadly a short if nformative introduction to its many attractions. Republic Square with its 16th century fountain
and the three- tiered Misericórdia hospital even with the curious modern fountain was an idyllic setting for lunch.

Before our evening flight back on Saturday nearly all accepted the late additional trip to Braga – ‘the city of churches’ (35) - not to ‘collect’ any more religious visits but to savour more of this enchanting country. First we stopped at the Sanctuary of San Sameiro with its fine view and modern church crypt with its Casares picture controversial for including a contemporary archbishop. Upstairs before leaving we sang the Salve Regina.